Zagarolo: A toy story in wine country
The town’s main site is a bit unsightly. The town itself is a long, precarious walk from the train station. But if you’re a child, a wine drinker or just a romantic about old Italy, Zagarolo would be a very relaxing day trip away from Rome.
It’s 20 miles southeast of the capital in the thick of Lazio wine country. Its Palazzo Rospigliosi has a star-crossed history but inside is one of the world’s great toy museums, one so good even an adult can enjoy it.
But it’s best to just wander around the picturesque alleys that criss-cross this town of about 18,500. Its historical center sits on a hill about two kilometers long and 100 meters wide and at the end of every alley is a nice view of the green countryside and the modern Zagarolo below. And it’s cheap. A bottle of ice-cold Peroni at a bar in Piazza Marconi is €1.80.
Things to do
1 • Palazzo Rospigliosi.
This three-sided rectangular structure looks more like a former prison than a 12th century palace. Its drab yellow paint job and barren courtyard don’t help the appearance. But it has an interesting history. It’s built on the site of a medieval castle that was part of a major conflict between the papacy and the rival Colonna family.
Part of the original palace dating to the late 12th century remains. In 1622 Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi bought it, enlarged it and put part of his art collection inside.
During World War II it held war refugees from around Italy. I saw no ticket office. I walked in and could see why. The big string of rooms are dusty with some beat up furniture. Walls and ceilings sport faded frescoes of nature and beefy women holding gems. Out the narrow windows are nice views of modern Zagarolo below – and a big, ugly crane.
A courtyard has a small stage with one lone chair, the remains of a past drama performance.
Info: Piazza Indipendenza 18, 39-06-9576-9405.
2 • Chiesa San Lorenzo Martire.
Zagarolo’s patron saint is San Lorenzo of Rome (225-258 AD). During the 3rd century, the Roman Empire battled with the rising Catholic church and ordered the death of all bishops and priests. San Lorenzo was either burned over a grid or beheaded.
The big white church with brown trim was built in 1602 and in 1661 the Ludovisi family enlarged it and gave it a dome. It survived two earthquakes and World War II. Today it has 26 pews and seven altars. Above the main altar is the painting The Martyrdom of St. Lawrence.
Info: Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 1, 39-06-952-4577.
3 • Museo del Giocattolo.
Inside the left wing of the palace is its star attraction. The toy museum on the next floor up has a little bit of everything, for young and old alike.
Each display case and room has a different type of toy or miniature. One has model Mercedes cars from 1960 and a mini-Alfa Romeo from 1924. Another has small motorcyclists, all looking like World War II fighter pilots with their leather helmets and goggles.
There are plastic boats, including the Pinta, Nina and the Santa Maria from Christopher Columbus’ voyage to North America in 1492. There’s the requisite dollhouse of Disney characters ranging from Snow White to the beast in Beauty and the Beast. Another case has action figures from Hollywood movies. Johnny Depp from Pirates of the Caribbean takes center stage.
One room has giant electric train sets and old 20th century board games, like Italy’s version of Risk: Risiko.
Info: Palazzo Rospigliosi, 9 a.m.-1 p.m., 3-5 p.m. Tuesday, Friday-Sunday; 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday. €5.
IL MUSEO – Museo del Giocattolo di Zagarolo (museogiocattolo.it)
Cantina del Tufaio
A tradition that started in 1881, this winery on the outskirts of town is one of dozens of small wineries that dot the Alban Hills southeast of Rome. Owner Claudio Loreti has a big tasting room where he rolls out his excellent Malvasia-Savignon blend and a real smooth Merlot. Tufaio is one of the wineries that transformed Lazio wine from mass production emphasizing quantity to smaller productions emphasizing quality. In the 1990s, the old guard handed down their wineries to their kids and the younger generation decided, instead of producing grapes for bigger companies, it would make their own wine. The change coincided with the improvement of wine technology. The winery organizes eco tours and wine tastings with local food products.
Info: Via Cancellata di Mezzo 30, Zagarolo, 39-06-95-24-502, 39-328-31-39-537,
Where is it:
20 miles southeast of Rome.
Trains leave Rome’s Termini station about every 30 minutes. The 35-minute journey costs €2.60. However, Zagarolo’s station is a 35-minute walk to the historical center, much of it down a narrow highway with no sidewalk.
A Cotral bus serving the region can collect you at the station and drop you off on Piazza Massimo D’Azaglio. Buy a ticket in the nearby tabacchi. It’s much cheaper than on the bus although my driver let me take the short ride for free.
For more information:
Municipality of Zagarolo, Palazzo Rospigliosi,
Piazza Indipendenza 6, 39-06-957-69413, Piazza Massimo D’Azeglio, 1, 00039 Zagarolo RM,
Where to eat:
Trattoria Filu’, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 98, 39-06-957-0565, www.trattoriafilu.it, 12:45-2:30 p.m., 7:45-9:45 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday; 12:30-2:30 p.m., 8-10 p.m. Friday; 1-3 p.m., 8-10 p.m. Saturday; 1-2:30 p.m. Sunday; 24 hours Monday; 1-2:30 p.m., 7:45-10 p.m. Tuesday. It opened only 12 years ago but inside a pre-medieval building with a curved stone, cave-like ceiling. Elegant restaurant has mains ranging from €9-€18.
Try the house specialty: paccheri all filu’, half tube pasta filled with sausage and cheese and covered in a fresh tomato sauce. That, a glass of local Federici wine and coffee was €17.
