

Latina: The town that Mussolini built

Italian students don’t read much positive about Benito Mussolini. Befriending Adolf Hitler kind of marred his resume. But one of Mussolini’s best accomplishments, besides his famed goal of getting “the trains to run on time,” was developing southern Lazio. Once a malaria-plagued swamp, he turned it into a string of beach towns and administrative centers. One of those is Latina. He founded the city in
1932 as Littoria and it changed to Latina in 1946 after World War II.
Today, some Romans claim Latina has the distinction of being the “Ugliest City in Italy.” That depends. If you like fascist architecture, Latina is worth a visit. With 127,500 people, Latina is Lazio’s biggest city outside Rome. If you’re a fan of World War II history, check out its Museo della Terra Pontina. And if you like bufala mozzarella, the famous white, milky cheese balls, Latina is at least a great place for lunch 40 miles (70 kilometers) outside Rome.

Things to do
1 • Fascist architecture: You can see plenty of fascism’s trademark buildings in Rome’s l’EUR, Mussolini’s ill-fated neighborhood he built but never finished after he wound up hanging from his toes. But Mussolini’s fingerprints are also all over Latina. You’ll know fascist architecture. It’s symbolized by big, strong buildings sporting huge windows, massive columns and signs you can read from miles around.
Walk around Latina’s center and you’ll see plenty. Such as Istituto Nazionale delle Assicurazioni on Via delle Medaglie d’Oro. The national insurance institute is a massive yellow brick building with sign letters five-feet high. Two big statues of women holding children stand in front. On Viale Mazzini is INCIS, which, built in 1924, housed state employees in a big orange monstrosity with wide balconies.
But no building represents fascist architecture in Latina more than the Guardia di Finanza in Piazzale Araldo di Crollalanza. It’s on scruffy grounds with gravel and weed-laced grass but that’s not important. What’s important is it’s in the shape of the letter M.
2 • Museo della Terra Pontina. It’s dedicated to the history of the Pontine marshes, the land Mussolini cleaned up to make what southern Lazio is today. It’s housed in the former 1932 headquarters of the Opera Nazionale Combattenti, the people who carried out the reclamation project. The museum features more than 1,000 artifacts, including tools, farm equipment, a model classroom and even a malaria lab. It’s set next to a pleasant piazza with Mediterranean pine trees.
Info: Viale Vittorio Veneto 24, 39-07-73-400-088, www.museodellaterrapontina.it info@museodellaterrapontina.it,
10 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Saturday, Tuesday, Thursday; 3-6:30 p.m. Wednesday,
10 a.m.-1:30 p.m., 3-6:30 p.m. Friday, free.
3 • Bufala mozzarella. If you’ve ever tried fresh bufala mozzarella straight from the source, you’ll never buy it outside Italy again. This part of southern Lazio has 700 bufala farms between Latina and Frosinone 30 miles (54 kilometers) to the east. Only the region of Campania has more with 1,200 farms. Mozzarella is exported around Europe, the U.S. and as far away as Japan.
Go to any alimentari (small food store) in Latina or one of the farms and buy a couple balls for a picnic at the Lido di Latina beach five miles away. We went to the Dalla Bona farm on the outskirts of town where in a tiny shop I bought two juicy mozzarella balls for €4.70. I had one later with a plate covered with fresh prosciutto.
Info: Caseificio Dalla Bona, Str. Litoranea, N.11129, 04100 Borgo Grappa LT,
39-389-024-0069, 8:30
a.m.-1:30 p.m., 4:30-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday.
How did Mussolini do it?
In the 1930s, Southern Lazio was a mosquito-infested, malaria-riddled, miserable, soggy, randomly populated dump not worthy of life other than insects and Nazis. In 1928, the population in this entire region was all of 1,637 people, most of whom lived in shanties across the boggy fields.
The Red Cross investigated and reported that 80 percent of the people who spent one night in the marsh developed malaria. Then came Mussolini. Named prime minister in 1922, he directed Alessandro Messea, the director-general of the department of health, to, pardon the expression but take this literally, “drain the swamp.” Mussolini took the plan to Parliament in 1929 and the next year cleared the scrub forest.
He constructed 10,700 miles of canals and trenches, dredged the rivers, dyked the river banks, filled the holes and built pump stations. The last channel, the one that leads to the Tyrrhenian Sea, was dubbed Mussolini Canal. Soon, cute little towns started popping up, such as Latina in 1932. In 1933, the project employed 124,000 people. Many were poor from the Veneto region near Venice.
When the project was completed, 2,000 families were settled in two-story houses and given a farmhouse, an oven, a plough, a stable, cows and land. The original name Littoria comes from the term fascio littorio. Fasces is an Italian symbol Ancient Rome took from the Etruscans symbolizing a Roman king’s power to punish his subjects.
Where is it:
40 miles (70 kilometers) south of Rome.
How to get there: The Latina train station is 20 minutes north of town. Trains leave regularly from Rome’s Termini station to Latina’s station. The journey takes 35 minutes where a bus takes you to Latina on Corso Matteotti and Via Milazzo. Cost is €1-€8. You’ll need a car to visit the mozzarella farms.
For more information:
Latina Turismo, Largo Jacopo Pari 70,
Where to eat:
Osteria da Giorgione, Via Pastrengo 10, 39-333-355-1636,
https://www.osteriadagiorgione.it,
osteriadagiorgione@libero.it,
12:15-3 p.m., 7-11 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 1-3 p.m. Sunday.
Best restaurant in Latina. It’s a highly popular, homey 16-year-old restaurant with burnt orange walls and drawings of different sized wine vessels on the wall. Pasta dishes from €9-€12 and meat from
€12-€20. Try the Polpette del Giorgio, four meatballs soaked in white wine.
Maybe the best meatballs I’ve had in Italy. Book ahead. Lunch on a Monday was packed.