Gallicano nel Lazio: Bridging the gap between ancient and new
There is something magical about historical districts in Italian villages. Even in the rain, the quaintness, narrow alleys, potted plants sitting on porches and the solitude make you feel like you’re walking through the real Italy.
In little Gallicano nel Lazio (pop. 6,300) about 25 miles (37 kilometers) east of Rome, you get that sensation. It doesn’t get many tourists and the sites are few. In fact, in two-plus years of doing TraveLazio, this is the first time we could not find a restaurant open. We saw its 10th century Passerano Castle but it’s a 10-minute drive out of town and can only be toured by appointment. No one answered the phone.
We not only missed out on food, we missed out on the town’s wonderful wine. But we did have a leisurely passeggiata (stroll) in the village and saw some of the most beautiful bridges in Lazio. There are worse ways to spend a day away from Rome than wandering an empty Italian village with nothing to do and nowhere to go.
Things to do
1 • Centro Storico. Normally, we don’t lead with a town’s historical district. Every town, big and small, has one. But Gallicano nel Lazio’s is so cute, the town needs it on all its tourist brochures – if they ever produce them. On a wet, gray day in the low 50s, we entered the center through an ancient arch and walked the narrow brick main road, Via Nuova. A big yellow clock tower hovered over the town and the 17th century Sant’Andrea Apostolo.
We passed Piazza della Rocca with a great view of the wooded countryside. In the pavement in front of the A Bar, one of the few establishments open, is the town symbol on a plaque: a rooster crowing. Gallicano comes from the Italian words “gallo (rooster)” and “canto (singing).” In Piazza del Mercato is a lookout with a view of the Prenestini Mountains in the distance. At the end of Via Roma, you get a panoramic view of the forest and hills dotted with a few houses. Turn anywhere on Via Nuova and narrow alleys and staircases lead past homes sporting potted plants.
2 • Bridges. No big deal? Why leave Rome to cross a bridge? Tell that to Clint Eastwood who made a hit movie out of The Bridges of Madison County. Gallicano has one he would’ve liked to have photographed. As we entered town, we crossed a bridge no more than 50 feet long. It had a little walkway alongside it with a beautiful wooden roof. The back of it had arched openings to look down at the overgrown gully the bridge crossed.
On the outskirts of town, you can’t cross Ponte Amato anymore. It does cover a babbling brook but it doesn’t connect anything. We parked at the end of a short gravel road and marveled at a bridge so old they don’t know the age. An information plaque says it could be from 150-100 B.C. or 40-50 A.D. The large stone bridge stands 7-10 meters high. It’s a good place to stop on the way out of town.
3 • Cantina Tre D. Gallicano’s winery is so popular we could not get in for an afternoon wine tasting until three days later. Located on the northeast outskirts of town, Cantina Tre D started in 1821. One hundred years later, the winery was shipping wine to Rome via horse-drawn carts that would leave in the middle of the night and arrive at dawn. Today, it remains in the D’Offizi family and has Cesanese, Chardonnay, Merlot as well as Montepulciano. Wine tastings only by appointment.
Info: Via del Traglione 17, 39-340-802-0069,
9 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 9 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Friday-Sunday. Tastings:
Three wines €23, five wines €35. https://www.cantinatred.it
Roman aqueduct runs through Gallicano
One of the great archaeological achievements in man’s history were the Roman aqueducts. The Ancient Romans built the first in 312 B.C., bringing water in from the distant mountains. By the 3rd century A.D., Rome had 11 aqueducts which supplied water for public baths, latrines, fountains and wealthy households. You can see well-preserved remains of an aqueduct on the outskirts of Gallicano.
Take an easy hiking trail from Ponte Amato and continue past Della Bullica bridge and on to Caipoli bridge. The aqueduct is right along this trail. Gallicano nel Lazio and San Gregorio da Sassola are part of the Archaeological Polense nature park and worthwhile to explore.
Where is it:
Where is it: 25 miles east of Rome.
How to get there: Trains leave Rome’s Termini station for Zagarolo.
Switch to a bus for Gallicano. Trip takes about an hour and is €1-€7.
It’s better to use a car to see the bridges and winery. A car takes about 40 minutes.
For more information:
Gallicano nel Lazio Comune: Via Tre Novembre 7, 39-06-9546-0093,
https://comune.gallicanonellazio.rm.it,
info@comune.gallicanonellazio.rm.it
Where to eat:
Venere, Via Maestra 6, 39-351.693.4043, https://venereristorante.it,
noon-3 p.m., 5:30-11 p.m. Friday-Sunday, 6:30-11 p.m. Monday, 5-11:30
p.m. Wednesday, 5:30-11 p.m. Thursday.
This is a pure guess. It’s in.the middle of town and was closed when we arrived. The menu looks good with pasta and meat dishes starting at €12. I especially liked the look of the Farmer’s Fettuccine and Venere Tonnarello.