We are nearing the end of our second year writing TraveLazio and the number of day trips from Rome we’ve chronicled total 43. That’s 22 towns north of Rome and 21 to the south of Rome. They include 43 restaurant recommendations. On July 19, we listed the top 10 restaurants to the north. Today, we recommend the top 10 to the south. We have eaten at each one, almost always for lunch. Each one we can’t wait to visit again. Due to the stiff competition, we list them in alphabetical order of the towns.
Buon appetito!
Anzio
In the same spot on the harbor since 1816, it sports a grainy black and white photo of the restaurant from the 19th century. It’s an elegant, airy restaurant with cream-colored tablecloths and big picture windows showing a balcony with three lone tables that are very difficult to reserve. Beyond was the navy blue Tyrrhenian Sea glistening in March sunlight. I ordered ravioli di spigola (ravioli filled with sea bass). Covered in rich tomato sauce and sprinkled with green onions, it was one of the best raviolis I’ve ever had.
Ariccia
Hostaria Sora Lella, Via dell’Uccelliera 40/42, 39-06-933-1990, 39-339-275-1041, open 24 hours.
This 25-year-old restaurant is up the street from the ring road lined with porchetta shops. This is as down home as it gets. It serves house wine in water glasses on tables with white and red checked tablecloths. The mixed platter has porchetta, salami, sausage, bufala mozzarella, beans, prosciutto, olives and bread for €15. Lunch for three of us with wine and coffee totalled only €48.
Artena
Chiocchio’, Via Santa Maria 40, 39-06-951-7096, http://www.ristorantechiocchio.eu/chio/ , info@ristorantechiocchio.eu.
A modern, sprawling restaurant at the top of the town with a spectacular panoramic view of the valley below, the 50-year-old restaurant specializes in meat and fish. Get the mixed antipasti with everything from cod to bruschetta to buffalo mozzarella. My veal-filled ravioli in truffle sauce was exquisite. Lunch for four of us came out to only €30 each.
Cave
Agriturismo L’Oca Bianca, Via Madonna del Campo 4, 39-06-950-8035, https://www.locabianca.it/, info@locabianca.it, 1-2:30 p.m., 7:30-10 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday. Reservations recommended.
A popular place for weddings and birthdays, the sprawling 25-hectare (60-acre) ground features lemon trees, a swimming pool and ancient fountain with 16 stalls that look like a horse trough. It’s a three-star bed and breakfast with seven apartments, in a building dating back to the 1900s, ranging from €40-€50 a night. The 18-year-old restaurant, with beautiful views of the grounds, has a hearty antipasto plate and local, homemade dishes.
My handmade fettuccine with white ragu was excellent. Pizzas, ranging from €5.50-€13, are served at night. It also makes its own cheese, honey and Cesanese wine. Its Cacio di Genazzano cheese is well-known around Lazio.
Fiumicino
Amelindo, Lungomare della Salute 111/b, 39-06-658-3216, https://amelindo.it/, noon-3:30 p.m., 7:30-11 p.m., Tuesday-Sunday.
Across street from sea, it has been around since 1969 and is popular with Rome families, particularly on Sunday. Fresh fish and seafood pasta dishes starting at €12.
Frascati
Cantina il Pergolato, Via del Castello 20, 39-06-942-0464, http://ww16.cantinailpergolato.com, 12:30-10:30 p.m. Sunday-Friday, 12:30-11 p.m. Saturday.
Down a short flight of stairs off a side street has two big rooms with bunches of plastic grapes hanging from wooden beams and big wheels of cheese behind display cases. The 40-year-old restaurant specializes in polenta, carbonara and ravioli. I recommend the gnocchetti provola e speck, small potato dumplings covered in white cheese with bits of ham. And save room for their signature dessert: sbriciolata, a big messy pile of cream covered in chocolate and cookie flakes.
Grottaferrata
Da Valerio, Viale San Nilo 3, 39-06-941-0319, https://www.ristorantedavalerio.it/, ristorantedavalerio@virgilio.it.
Beautiful setting under an arched, stone ceiling and stained-glass chandeliers. Big variety of pasta dishes ranging from €13-20 and meat dishes from €18-32.
Ostia Antica
Ristorante Monumento, Piazza Umberto 1, 39-06-565-0021,
http://www.ristorantemonumento.it/, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.
Opened in 1884, it originally hosted local hunters and men working on the marshes. Now it’s a high-end seafood restaurant with outdoor seating near the gate entrance to the neighborhood’s historical center. Mains €15-€20. Try the fish ravioli, fish-stuffed square pasta sprinkled with tiny clams and cherry tomatoes. Lunch for two with wine was €54.
Palestrina
Agriturismo Casale Pepe, Via Quadrelle 26/28, Palestrina, 06-9563-5029, 333-276-8723, info@casalepepe.com , www.casalepepe.com.
Located at the bottom of the hill, it’s a two-story farmhouse where local farmhands gather to eat authentic local dishes in a forest setting at cheap prices. Try the gnocchi amatriciana, small potato dumplings covered in a sauce of tomatoes, bacon (pig’s cheek), onions and pecorino cheese.
Sperlonga
Incontramare, Strada Lungomare, Kilometer 29,950, Sabaudia, 39-335-758-4486, lucanalli68@gmail.com.
Located in the beach town just north of Sperlonga, this is the most romantic restaurant we found on the Lazio coast. Food also doesn’t disappoint. Catch the sunset while eating pan-fried tuna in parmesan sauce with candied pears.